Spider Gecko (Agamura persica)

Spider geckos come from hot, desert regions of the upper Middle East. Rocky outcroppings in the otherwise flat and arid regions of Iran and Iraq are the homes for these fascinating geckos. A Spider Gecko's legs and feet do not appear to be adapted for digging and burrowing (even though the females do a fine job when they lay eggs). The long legs of these geckos are good for climbing uneven surfaces and probably serve as a means of thermoregulation when surface temperatures become extreme.
Instead of burrows, spider geckos prefer crevices, cracks and other shelter provided by multiple rocks. We suggest concentrating on making multi-level rock piles that can comfortably house your spider gecko(s).This sort of set-up is easier to describe with a couple pictures. Click on the thumbnails below for larger photos and more information.


Housing:

Spider geckos may be kept in groups or solo. It's better if males are not housed together. Pairs can be kept together year-round, but we suggest separating the male from females if there is excessive breeding and stress. Glass enclosures work best for viewing. A 10-gallon enclosure is the minimum size for a single adult. We like to use 20-gallon tanks (both 20-high and 20-long) for trios. See the above photos and descriptions for more details.
A 20- gallon long (30"x13"x13") also makes a good size enclosure for a group of spider geckos. This space orientation does not allow for taller piles of rocks like the 20-high [24"x12"x17" (LxWxH in inches)] but functions adequately for smaller stacks and creates more floor space and more temperature gradient. 20-longs are good if you want to plant live plants and make a desert vivarium set-up.

We use Play Sand, but most forms of sand will work. Young hatchlings should be kept on paper towels etc, for their first 3-4 months to avoid impaction issues.When female spider geckos are gravid and regularly laying eggs, it's good to have at least 2-3 inches of sand (preferably slightly moist) in which they can dig and deposit their eggs. See the forthcoming water section for more tips.

Heating/Lighting:

A range in temperature is much appreciated by geckos so they may thermoregulate. Ambient air temperatures may range from basking zones in the mid-90s to cooler areas and night temps in the 70s or 80s. We suggest overhead bulbs for heating. When using bulbs, bear in mind that surface temps in the basking zone are usually at least 10-15 degrees(F) hotter than the ambient air temperatures. A 95-degree ambient-air temperature usually means that the surface temps in the basking zone is 110-125 degrees (depending on the heat-bulb and the type of surface). Place the heat source on one side of the tank only. I like to use red bulbs becuase they are good for viewing these geckos at night.
Spider geckos also do well under full spectrum UV light. Since they are active during the day and night it is likely that they are exposed to significant levels of UVB in the wild. Based on our experiences breeding and raising these geckos, we believe that significant UV levels are important for breeding females and hatchlings.

Water:

A shallow water dish is a plus but we've found that spider geckos rarely use them. Instead, we suggest lightly misting the enclosure 2-3 times per week. The geckos will drink water droplets off themselves and surrounding surfaces. Make sure the substrate is never wet for long (unless your females are laying eggs).

If you have a female that is laying eggs, we've found that it is helpful to put a shallow water dish on the hot side of the enclosure. When misting the geckos, fill this dish till it overflows and moistens the substrate into the moderate temperature-zone of the enclosure (usually the middle of the cage). The heat-bulb will heat and dry-up the water, but trace amounts of moisture stays trapped in the sand (as long as you water regularly and have 2-4 inches of sand).The spider gecko females seek out these spots that, when combined with the right temperature, provide ideal conditions for incubating their eggs. Females usually dig several test-sites and eventually deposit their eggs somwhere near the bottom layer of substrate. If all environmental conditions stay relatively constant, then you can expect to find eggs consistently laid in the same general area.

Food:

Crickets and mealworms make up the majority of the spider gecko's diet. Hatchlings should be fed pinheads or 2-week-old crickets and watered more often than the adults. Adults can consume large crickets but seem to prefer smaller ones. Mealworms and superworms may also be offered. We like to use a dish for worms (one that will keep the worms from escaping). Supplements can be added to this dish-full of worms as an additional source for minerals and vitamins. The geckos will quickly learn where the worms can be found and will check the dish regularly for worms
Be sure you acquire your crickets from a clean source and feed them fresh food (you may use "gutload" if you like) and water. Do not feed moldy food to your crickets (this can cause serious disease).

Be sure to supplement the diet with calcium and D3 and vitamins. We suggest a 1.3 ratio of herptivite to repcal calcium with D3. Place crickets in a tall cup, add the supplements and shake to coat crickets. Do this every other day for young geckos and then taper off to once or twice a week for adults (especially reduce the vitamin supplements). Make sure to offer more calcium to gravid females.

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